How Do Skin Boosters Work?

The difference between applying and injecting

Many people have had the experience of using cosmetics with good ingredients and not seeing as much change as they hoped. The reason is simple. The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, is a barrier that keeps foreign substances from entering freely. The larger the molecule, the harder it is to pass through this barrier.

Skin boosters are a way of bypassing that barrier. Instead of applying the ingredient, a fine needle places it directly into the dermis. The approach is different in that it works on the environment inside rather than smoothing the surface texture of the skin.

Which layer it goes into matters

Skin is divided into the epidermis, the dermis and the subcutaneous fat layer. The extracellular matrix (ECM) that creates firmness and thickness, and the fibroblasts that produce it, are in the dermis.

That is why skin boosters target the dermis. Too shallow and the ingredient stays near the epidermis, failing to do its job and easily leaving marks. Too deep and it enters the fat layer, never reaching the intended place. This is why the same ingredient produces different results depending on the injection depth, the spacing and the amount placed at each point.

The injection technique also varies. There is a method of injecting small amounts at many points, and a method of inserting a fine cannula and spreading the material along a layer. Which suits better depends on the area and the ingredient.

This is also why the procedure is described as closer to a design task than a simple injection.

Each family targets something different

The hyaluronic acid family holds water. Because it attracts moisture, it produces skin that looks hydrated and plump from right after the procedure. It is felt quickly, but over time it is broken down and absorbed, so maintaining it requires repetition.

The PN and PDRN families use DNA fragments obtained from salmon as their source material. The two differ in length: PN is the longer polymer and PDRN is shorter. They act as signals that support the regeneration of damaged tissue, approaching fine lines and skin texture. Unlike the moisture-filling family, the change appears gradually.

The ECM family supplies matrix components such as collagen and elastin directly. The direction is to support the structure while inducing fibroblasts to produce new collagen. There are allogeneic products made from human skin tissue, and there is also the option of using autologous ECM extracted from your own fat. What is being injected differs from SVF, which gathers stem cells from that same fat.

Approaches that use SVF alongside these are distinct from the families above in that living cells, not ingredients, are being injected. They also differ in requiring a harvesting procedure.

The names are similar and easy to confuse, but the source materials and mechanisms differ, so it is best to confirm in your consultation what is being used.

TheLINE Plastic Surgery Clinic works with both commercial skin boosters and autologous tissue. Because we extract and purify autologous ECM and SVF from fat directly in our in-house laboratory, we review together which suits you, a commercial product or your own tissue, depending on your skin condition and your goal. Some of our patients at TheLINE proceed with both in stages.

How is this different from filler and Botox?

The three have different purposes.

Filler fills a hollow to create shape. Because it is a procedure that adds volume, a contour forms where it is placed. Skin boosters sometimes use hyaluronic acid as well, but the viscosity and the injection method differ, so rather than creating shape they spread widely and work on the condition of the skin. The same source material serves a different use.

Botox reduces muscle movement to relieve wrinkles created by facial expression. Because it acts on muscle rather than the skin itself, the approach is different for wrinkles that remain even at rest.

Skin boosters work on the foundation of the skin rather than on shape or movement. Since the three target points that do not overlap, they are sometimes used together.

Who considers this?

The most common case is skin that is thin and dry, making the texture look rough. Makeup does not sit well and fine lines are noticeable, but it is too early to call it sagging. At this stage, working on the foundation suits better than filling or lifting.

It is also used as an adjunct before or after surgery, on the judgment that good skin condition makes recovery easier.

Conversely, there are cases where it is not suitable. If the problem is the amount of loose tissue, repeating skin boosters alone will fall short of expectations. Where the cheeks have hollowed and cast shadows, fat grafting, which fills volume, may be the better fit.

We do not proceed during pregnancy, where there is inflammation at the treatment site, or where there has been a hypersensitivity reaction to a particular ingredient. It is best to tell us in the consultation about any medications you are taking and your history of previous procedures.

What is the recovery like?

The procedure time varies with the area and the method but is generally short. In many cases, the wait after applying anesthetic cream takes longer than the procedure itself.

Right afterward, the skin becomes red and swollen along with the needle marks. This usually settles within a day or two as the material disperses, but for visible areas such as the face it is better to leave some room in your schedule. Bruising can also occur and may take about a week to disappear completely.

On the day of the procedure you are advised to avoid makeup, saunas and vigorous exercise. Faster blood circulation can worsen swelling and bruising.

When you notice change depends on the family. The moisture-filling side is felt within a few days, while the regeneration-inducing side appears gradually over several weeks.

Effects and limits

This is not a procedure to expect immediate change from. The moisture-filling family is felt relatively quickly, but the regeneration-inducing family appears gradually over time, and it is standard to divide the treatment over several sessions.

Because it is an injection procedure, swelling, bruising, redness and pain can occur, and rarely nodules or infection. The treated area can sometimes feel bumpy to the touch, and this usually softens with time.

Where sagging has progressed, skin boosters alone will not resolve it. This is a procedure that works on the quality of the skin, not one that reduces loose tissue. In such cases, lifting procedures are considered alongside it.

We recommend sorting out what you want to improve first and then choosing the method. Rough texture, hollowing and sagging are different problems, and the approaches differ too.

Frequently Asked Questions